Thursday, 1 November 2012

Masterclass - How and Where to Wear Eye Shadow

What we're going to be touching on more this week is where to put eye shadow to give you the best of what you got. I did used to be one of those people who just put it on without too much thought, but as I make my way through the my course and experience it can also be used to balance out upper and lower portions of eyes.

For application purposes I prefer brushes, you can get of a blended look, and especially with powder I have more control. When I started I had a big fluffy brush to apply base shade with then a slightly smaller stiffer one to apply any contour with. I then just built from there, I do detest the applicators that come with them, I feel they are too small to do anything with really. That is just me personally.

Click to enlarge
'Average' eyes

With this eye shape you are just enhancing the natural shape. Apply a base colour all over, and contour the darker shade into the crease of the eye and blend outwards.

Wide Set eyes

Avoid using strong and pearlised colours on the inner eyelid, use paler matte products from the centre to outer eyelid. Put a thin eye line beyond the inner corner of the eye and keep the line to the outer end of the lashes. If suitable eyeliner and shadow can be applied to the lower lid to the outer edges.

Close Set eyes

Brighten the inner corners by applying matte light colours, avoiding strong or pearlised that draw attention. Focus attention from the centre of the eyelid towards and beyond the outer corner of the eye by using darker eye cosmetics. 'Lift' the eyebrow by putting highlighter here.

Deep Set eyes

The shading of the eye socket needs to be created above the natural socket line to give the appearance of more depth, this will then be enhanced the new lash line below the eyes. Highlight beneath the eyebrow arch, then using a pearly shadow apply all over. From the lashline work a darker shadow and work upwards, and add a thin line along the outer half of the outer half of the eyelid.

Prominent eyes

By reducing the depth of the eyelid and creating extra width, use a darker shadow on the centre of the eyelid with a thicker liner flicking upwards and outwards . If using a lower line, keep a gap between both lines and blended eyeshadow underneath.

Hooded eyes

To create the illusion of fullness of the skin that creates the over hang, apply a small bit of highlighter in the eyebrow arch. Then add a pale pearlised shadow all over the eyelid. Use a dark neutral coloured shadow to the fullest area of skin hanging over the eyelid. Blend this upwards into the highlighted area using a slightly lighter shade.

Next Week - Adapting techniques for glass wearers


  1. This is really interesting, I've always just kind of smeared it over my eyelid without much thought - I'll try using these tips this morning! :)

    1. Same here when I first started using eye shadow, just plonked it on lol x


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