Masterclass - How and Where to Wear Eye Shadow

What we're going to be touching on more this week is where to put eye shadow to give you the best of what you got. I did used to be one of those people who just put it on without too much thought, but as I make my way through the my course and experience it can also be used to balance out upper and lower portions of eyes.

For application purposes I prefer brushes, you can get of a blended look, and especially with powder I have more control. When I started I had a big fluffy brush to apply base shade with then a slightly smaller stiffer one to apply any contour with. I then just built from there, I do detest the applicators that come with them, I feel they are too small to do anything with really. That is just me personally.

Click to enlarge

'Average' eyes

With this eye shape you are just enhancing the natural shape. Apply a base colour all over, and contour the darker shade into the crease of the eye and blend outwards.

Wide Set eyes

Avoid using strong and pearlised colours on the inner eyelid, use paler matte products from the centre to outer eyelid. Put a thin eye line beyond the inner corner of the eye and keep the line to the outer end of the lashes. If suitable eyeliner and shadow can be applied to the lower lid to the outer edges.

Close Set eyes

Brighten the inner corners by applying matte light colours, avoiding strong or pearlised that draw attention. Focus attention from the centre of the eyelid towards and beyond the outer corner of the eye by using darker eye cosmetics. 'Lift' the eyebrow by putting highlighter here.

Deep Set eyes

The shading of the eye socket needs to be created above the natural socket line to give the appearance of more depth, this will then be enhanced the new lash line below the eyes. Highlight beneath the eyebrow arch, then using a pearly shadow apply all over. From the lashline work a darker shadow and work upwards, and add a thin line along the outer half of the outer half of the eyelid.

Prominent eyes

By reducing the depth of the eyelid and creating extra width, use a darker shadow on the centre of the eyelid with a thicker liner flicking upwards and outwards . If using a lower line, keep a gap between both lines and blended eyeshadow underneath.

Hooded eyes

To create the illusion of fullness of the skin that creates the over hang, apply a small bit of highlighter in the eyebrow arch. Then add a pale pearlised shadow all over the eyelid. Use a dark neutral coloured shadow to the fullest area of skin hanging over the eyelid. Blend this upwards into the highlighted area using a slightly lighter shade.

Next Week - Adapting techniques for glass wearers

Masterclass - Eye Shadow Colours and Effects

Using different eye shadows colours can achieve different effects, depending how their use and where they are used. Eye shadows not only come in a pressed powder form but also loose powder and cream (as well as different variants in between). The best way to get used to these different textures is to explore and play with them. I prefer powder as this has more of use dry or wet, and I have more control over how I use it.

What we going to do for this masterclass is to break down the colours and what effect they have on the final look:

Dark, muted colours

Colours: Charcoal,browns, olive, plums

These are more for defying eye contour and are more flattering for a sophisticated look. Can look better on dark haired and eyed models, while for fair skins can be used with a finer brush as a more subtle liner effect.

Pastel Colours

Colours: Pale blue, light aqua, pale green, peach

These colours produce a softer effects, if they have a slight shimmer I use these more as a base for matching colours to go on top. Good for people with blond or grey hair and if matched with eyes can bring out their colour.

Pale Colours

Colours: White, pearl, cream.

In contrast to darker shadows produces a highlighting effect that can be on the brow bone and inside of the eyes to make them look wider. I also use these if what I have applied is too dark by buffing these colours over.

Muted Colours

Colours: Grey, beige, sage, mauve.

Produce a more delicate effect than the darker colours so are more suited to producing a everyday look, and then adding the darker ones to covert to more of an evening look.

Bright Colours

Colours: Blue, green, yellow, violet, red

As the 'fun' side of colouring, are more suited for fashion or glamour make up. However they can look harsh on maturer skins when used all over, so adapting it to use wet as a liner can be more flattering way of wearing colour.

Next week - How and where to wear eye shadow

Dove Nourishing Oil Care Express Treatment Conditioner

It now is a documented fact that due to mother nature, that I dye my hair, this mixed with the fact that I have natural fine frizzy hair means that it suffers greatly. It hates humidity and needs regular cutting it turns into a style that's based on The Muppet's Animal (especially if I've decided on going red).

I am currently loving all the hair oils that are coming out, my hair seems to lovingly drink them and is starting to behave better between cuts. I am currently using the Ojon range that to be honest costs an arm and a leg, which was a 30th birthday present to myself. As you can gather an affordable alternative is always an attractive thing.

Dove had been offering samples of it's new Nourishing Oil Care Express Treatment Conditioner. Blurb is that it is a daily one minute treatment for dry/frizzy hair that has a mixture of Argan, coconut and almond oil that has vitamin E and F to help hair. It says that it is 3 times more nourishing than a 'normal' conditioner.

I washed my hair last night and needed a little more than normal decided to give it a try. I squeezed a 1p sized amount for my shoulder length hair, the first thing to notice is that it comes like toothpaste, a white part with yellow stripes that you rub together before applying. Comb Through with a wide toothed comb, leave then wash off, not exactly brain surgery.

After drying (I put hair oil on my hair when damp - currently Ojon Restorative Oil), I honestly couldn't stop touching it, because i felt really soft. It had a soft nutty smell from the nut oils which I really like and complimented the rest of the products I used. Even now the morning after it's even feeling soft, and the curls look more defined with very little frizz.