Masterclass - Basic Body Care

Aka - Body talk

Ok, so we know what your skin is and how to look after the face, but that's only a small part of your bodies skin. It is no good to have that lovely luminous face with the rest of you looking a little below par. This entry  is also perfect timing as the weather here in the UK has been bea-ti-ful enough to think about removing layers and showing a little bit more skin (for the one minute as the clouds part maybe!)

There is nothing really scary about the body, if you have the good foundation for the facial skin you can transfer this over to the body. So let's go over a few basics and how we adapt these to the rest of the body:

Cleansing - This can be either bath or shower, this is personal preference, I like a shower because it's quicker, easier to do maintenance and I feel cleaner out of it. The main thing is to make sure the water is not too hot (which I am guilty of in the winter), this can dry out the skin more, leaving it red and inflamed. I realised this what was causing my poor skin feeling dry and itchy and have decreased the heat in my water. Shower/bath gel? Purely your choice but if you have drier skin look for moisturising one to get some extra nutrients in the skin.

Exfoliation - The skin on  your body also regenerates like your face so it also benefits from having an extra hand. Body scrubs have larger grains in and come in grains (like ground nuts etc.), sugar and salt (which dissolves into the skin). Rub in circular motions towards the heart (to help your circulation, which then can carry oxygen and waste around, another way of getting some glow). Avoid inflamed and dry areas as it can only make it worse.

Moisturising - My mum is a teacher of all my first exploration into skin care, out of all the things she taught me there is one things that i now do without thinking. When you come out of the bath rather than jut towel off straight away I use a flannel to take the most of the water off while leaving the skin slightly damp, then massaging the lotion in (towards the heart again), relax in the steam (pop a face mask on now - your pores are more open and willing to be cleaned out), then pat the skin dry (saves distressing the skin).

Does it matter how much you clean? I try and shower every other day if it's a normal week, more if I need to (or husband complains that I smell - nice). Every person is different in this, some people can get away with less some with more.

Next - Hair Removal

Brand Masterclass - Lancome

Founded in 1935 by Armand Petitjean in France, Lancôme celebrated its 75th anniversary in 2010. Petitjean’s motive was simple: to create a beauty brand that would deliver French elegance around the world. The name “Lancôme” was inspired by the ruins of a castle, Le Château de Lancosme, while the roses in the area inspired the company’s symbol of the single golden rose.

Armand Petitjean

Armand Petitjean was already 50 years old when he start Lancome, and originally was an importer of goods from around Europe, but he has also work in the French foreign office and, more notably, for Francois Coty, a skilled perfumer. However, Petitjean did not approve of the path Coty was taking his brand, rather than focusing on quality he was going towards the mass market line.

Pettijean decided he wanted to be prestige market or not all, with that he gathered several like minded colleagues including d’Ornano brothers, the chemist Pierre Velon, and Georges Delhomme, Coty’s former design director. While they created he put together Lancome, “Why did I create Lancome?” he said one day, “Because I had seen that two American brands had taken control of the beauty industry. A French brand should be up alongside them.”

They launched with five fragrances - Tropiques, Conquete, Kypre, Tendres Nuits, and Bocages, as well as their bottles ornamented with gold, orchids, green forests, or moldings of cargo ropes, were a snub to the ascetically geometric Art Deco of the moment.

After the building success from critics, he turned to Dr. Medynski, a veteran professor whose recent discovery of stabilising horse serum in skin care, and the industrial chemist Pierre Velon. Together they created the Nutirx range, a regenerating night cream, and a range that still sells in high numbers to this day.

In 1938 saw the start of Lancome make-up with Rose de France, a pale pink rose scented lipstick that soft and creamy, truly against the lipsticks of the time that were indelible and dry. It was an instant best seller.



1953 Tresor Magazine Advert

Lancome was the forefront of beauty of many years,  rapidly established itself with three branches of cosmetic activity, each with its own emblem: a rose for perfumery, a cherub for makeup, and a lotus flower for skin-care products. Behind the scenes things were not so calm, Petijean's son decided that he did want to enter the business, and he was given no choice but to start looking at alternatives.

Many companies started to woo Lancome - Revlon, Yardley, Payot, but all had one thing in common, they were not french. Until L'Oreal approached them in 1967 with already great influence in the international market and a large money backing, they were the choice. 3 years later Petitjean passed away at the age of 84.

Lancome in the modern era still hold the original ideals that the founding father created. French cultural values and the French perception of elegance and beauty as a whole.

Brand Masterclass - Benefit Cosmetics

It is not often that businesses are started off with a coin toss. Twins Jean and Jane Ford at a crossroads - Heads it was going to be a casserole cafe but thankfully it was tails to open a beauty boutique. In 1976 the Ford twins opened 'The Face Place' in San Francisco. The first product was a lip and blush tint called 'Rose Tint', developed for an exotic dancer who was in need of a nipple tint for shows.

In 1989, the catalogue was developed and this a new focus on department store distribution, The Face Place was rebranded and named Benefit Cosmetics. Their key product also had a make over and was rename what we know it today - Benetint. It still remains the companies top seller at over 10 million bottles sold.

With success in America, they opened in Europe in the Harrods Store in 1997, with the website store soon launching afterwards. Then in 1999 LVMH (Moét Hennessy - Louis Vuitton) brought Benefit. As the company grew so did the Benefit family with Jean's daughters, Maggie and Annie, joining their mother and aunt in 2008.

From the start Benefit to this day keeps to it quirkiness, know for it's unique packaging and product names. The empire has also expanded into it own line of Brow Bars and stand alone stores as well as having a strong presence in department stores and pharmacies.

"Laughter is the best cosmetics, so grin and wear it."

Brand Masterclass - Estée Lauder

Josephine Esther Mentor was born in Queens, New York, daughter to a Hungarian mother and Czech father. Estée was a variation of her nickname Esty. She was in her high school years when her interest in beauty started, her uncle had moved into the family home as well as his skin care preparations created in the family kitchen (which later then transferred into a stable in the back of the house).

Estée initially started showing products to ladies in the local salons while drying their styled hair under dryers. Even from the earliest beginnings, she believed that the customer should be touched, shown the results and have the products explained. This success led to the formation of the Estée Lauder brand, partnering with her husband, with four products: Super-Rich All Purpose Creme, Creme Pack, Cleansing Oil, and Skin Lotion. Within the first year they had their biggest order $800 worth of product to be sold from Saks 5th Avenue, New York.

She never attended college, but drew from her own instincts as a saleswoman, marketeer and consumer. The gift with purchase that we know today was introduced by Lauder, by giving samples of products with purchases to encourage loyalty and further purchases. The first international account was opened in 1960 in Harrods, London, with Hong Kong to follow the year after.

Mrs. Lauder attended the opening of nearly all news accounts, training advisors in sales techniques and merchandise displays. Always smartly dressed, she would travel the country to met with buyers, editors and the public. Even through Lauder was an advocate of mouth-of-mouth (one of her sayings was , "Telephone, Telegraph, Tell a Woman"), when they did start to advertise she was strict that the images used are inspirational and approachable. The original pale turquoise jars were chosen to portray luxury and match with bathroom decor of the time.

Not only was she a skin care pioneer, Estée also had a perfumers nose for fragrance. Her earliest success was with Youth Dew and is still one of their best sellers today. She also pioneered fragrance as an everyday need rather than a luxury by originally selling this as a bath oil to make it, "Guiltless journey to their own fragrance buying adventure."
Mrs Lauder also oversaw the creation of Aramis, Clinique, Prescriptions, Lab Series for Men, and Origins with the emphasis on the highest quality of ingredients. Now a global leader in beauty, Mrs Lauder retired in 1995 with her sad passing in April 2004. The reins have now been handed over to the Lauder family, but the values are the embodiment of Estée Lauder herself like the first day she was on counter herself.

Masterclass - Using Mascara

I wrote The History of Mascara a few months back but never followed on with how to use mascara, so before I take a break from the make-up Masterclasses I wanted to tie up a loose end.

 

 

We use mascara to enhance the lashes of the eye whether we want to lengthen, thicken or curl them. It can make the eyes seem more 'open' and whiter, thus looking more appealing. Each formula will have it's own benefits to bring to your lashes:

• Lengthen - These are designed to make the lashes longer, and are more suitable with the lucky ones who already have thick lashes but feel they need them longer
• Thicken - Contain a higher level of fibres that build up the lashes, can come as a primer or inside the mascara itself.
• Curls - Without using a manual curler (like an eyelash curler) can provide a more curved appearance, but if used with a curler can look more dramatic.

And then there are the mascaras out there that do it all!

Applying:

1. Make sure that the lashes are free from any dirt or residue of previous make up using a remover during the pre make-up prep as this will make application easier.
2. If you are using a manual eye curler this is where I would use it, I have pre-warmed the curler using a hair dryer to keep the curl for longer (Use only for a few seconds, enough where it touch warm rather than hot).
3. Pull the wand out of tube, if it is still 'fresh' I find it has that satisfying little pop noise to it. You should replace mascaras every 3 months to reduce any chance of bacteria breeding that transfers from your lashes to the inside of the tube.
4. Looking slightly down, use the unwanded hand to lift the brow, this lifts the lashes up so you find it easier to access the root of the lashes.
5. Apply mascara from the roots to the tip while wiggling the brush as this coats the lashes better (do this while pulling your most impressive "mascara face")
6. Add another coat as needed.

Don't feel like mascara is enough? Masterclass in False Lashes here
Need to take it all off? Masterclass in Cleansing here

Want to know the next Masterclass? Look it up here

Masterclass - History of Lipstick Trends

We need to head back 5000 years to see evidence of the first type of lipstick wore the Egyptians. This was a mixture of crushes precious stones, clay, rust, henna and seaweed. There was also a mixture of bromine mannite mixed with iodine that was commonly used, this combination of deep purple stain would get the reputation of 'Kiss of Death' due to the toxic mixture. Queen Cleopatra (51BC and 30BC) was wiser and used a mixture of beeswax and crushed ants with fish scales to add shine.

Queen Nefertiti (1370 – 1330 BC)

It wasn't until get to the Middle Ages that this cosmetics fall out of favour with Upper Classes as it was presented that only prostitutes and lower classes should be wear. It took Elizabeth I to start the trend again with her pale face and crimson lips - stained with beeswax and either rose or geranium flowers.

As we pass through 17th century the church declares make up as, "the work of the devil" and in 1770 was outlawed alongside any make-up. Any woman found wearing it would be declared a witch and burnt at the stake. Even through we eventually lose the witch burning, wearing cosmetics of any kind was still frowned upon well into Queen Victoria's reign (1837-1901), who declared that wearing make-up was vulgar and indecent. Women smuggled in cosmetics from France to fulfil the void during this time.

By the late 1890's make-up started to be declared socially acceptable and lipstick started to slowly become popular. In 1920's saw lipstick sales increase as women embraced being more independent, alongside the ease of new lipstick products coming onto the market, including the invention of the swivel motion that we see in today's lipsticks.

1920's

The first trends saw deep garnets and blacks in small delicate shapes on the centre of the lips. This developed into deep red-browns as we head into 1930's in longer elongated shapes. It was this time that Elizabeth Arden introduced a large range of different colours to the market which provided the inspiration of other companies starting ranges. Also at this time lipstick was seen as a 'womans' product and not for young girls, while the adults still saw it as an act of rebellion.

As we head into the 1940's and the World Wars women was encourage to wear brighter reds to boost moral for the troops. Women in the forces were given tubes of red lipstick and instructions on how to wear it. This also transferred onto the Hollywood stars of the time Rita Hayworth, Bette Davis and Joan Crawford with full symmetrical pouts.

1950's saw a separation of styles, Marylin Manroe with her luscious red lips and Audrey Hepburn with her softer pink colour. This was the biggest time of creativity, production and application techniques. The style extended over the natural lip line to give a bigger appearance.

Elizabeth Taylor in 1950's

The freedom of the 60's and 70's let convention go out of the window. With the focus more on the eyes, pale pearl lipsticks sticks were the trend while the focus went onto the eyes. More division came in the 70's with the glam rockers and new romantics embracing darker purple and blacks, with disco embracing crimson and burgundy glosses.

The boom of cosmetics in 1980's was the build up to 1990's, the 80's embraced bold statements in application very much like the fashion of the time. The 90's were all about taking styles and influences from fashion and models (as well as creating make up artist into celebraties - Bobbi Brown being a key figure at this time). This also starts the seasonal colour changes that we see today with brown natural tones being popular with lips being brown or taupe shades (At this time I was 16 and wearing Heather Shimmer by Rimmel - the ultimate 90's lipstick).

Jennifer Aniston at the height of her fame in 'Friends' - The pinnacle of 90's fashion



As we enter a new millennium lipstick technology becomes more advanced and the trends change every three months to go with the latest changes in fashion and consumer need. Lipstick still is an essential to any collection that is brought out with the stand alone classics that stand the test of time (5000 years to be exact).

Masterclass - Lipstick

 

Lipstick is a combination of pigments, oils, emoluments, and waxes. This applies a colour, texture and protection to the lips. Some lipsticks can contains perfume as well as added vitamins but there is an increase of lipstick that not contain these they can increase chances of allergies.

 

Most lipsticks have four finishes:

• Cream - Has a slight shine to the finish, known for needed to replenished often. Has a high level of wax while long lasting ranges have a higher level of oil.
• Matt - Dull finish that can last longer
• Frosted - Lasts the longest because it also the driest, this produced by adding shimmery like mica or silica.
• Translucent - Almost colourless lipsticks.

Lipstick is made from grinding and heating ingredients. The heated waxes are added to the mix for texture. Oils and lanolin are added for specific formula requirements. Afterwards, the hot liquid is poured onto a metal mold. The mixture is chilled and kept cool so that the lipsticks harden. Once they have hardened, they are heated in flame for half a second to create a shiny finish and to remove imperfections.

 

It was said that first lipstick was made by Mesopotamian woman who grounded gemstones to wear on their lips. The ancient Egyptians expanded on this creating toxic combinations to decorate their lips including the first uses of fish scales to produce a shimmery effect.

 

In medieval Europe it was forbidden for people by the church to wear cosmetics and was know to be a mark of women of the night to be wearers. It wasn't until Royalty, Elizabeth I, started the trend for wearing blush red lips with pales faces that it acceptable for the higher classes to be seen wearing make up.

 

The first commercial lipstick was manufactures by French perfumer Guerlian in 1884. It was wrapped in silk paper and made from deer tallow, castor oil, and beeswax. It wasn't until 1921 that it acceptable for women to start wearing cosmetics and lipsticks.

 

Next Week - Lipstick trends

Masterclass - Lipgloss

From my kit: L-R Estee Lauder High Gloss, Benefit The Gloss, No.7 Lip Shine and Lancome Juicy Tube.

 



Lip gloss is designed to add a luste and shine to the lips, adding this can make the lips look fuller. It is used for a softer, lighter colour for people who doesn't want the 'wow' effect of a lipstick. Popular in teens (and the young at heart) as it is an easily accessible make up product. Some glosses also have moisturising benefits like lip balms but have a different finish.

The first lip gloss on the market was made by Max Factor called X-Rated in 1930, wanting a lip product that would look glossy in the cinema screen in black and white pictures. As more woman longed for the cinema looks, Max Factor released the gloss for sale and the same colour had been on sale until 2003 where it was retired after the sale to Proctor and Gamble.

 It is presented in different ways: a tube that has an applicator that is dipped in or a squeezable tube that the products come out of that can be applied with fingers or disposable brush. The range of colours are huge with the next thing being a hybrid of intense colour of lipstick and the shine of gloss.

Next week - Lipstick

Masterclass - Eyebrows

We have previous spoken about how to tidy the eyebrows and give them some defination and shape in previous Masterclass Update on Threading. What we are going to focus on here is how to add colour and bring out the eyebrows more using colour cosmestics.

The aim is produce eyeborws that are evenly shaped and taper naturally away at the outer edges. For the most natural effect would be an enhancement for the shape, however some fashions can lead for more of a promantly look

There are two different products to consider: Pencil and powder. Pencil should used put little angled lines to fill in where hair is sparse. Powder is worked using a pointed or firm and angled brush. Both should be used going from the inside of the eyebrows and worked outwards. This should be at the same time with breaks to swap so each can look indentical.

The next hurdle is what colour would be best - The colour should again be an enhancement of the natural colour. These below are guidelines:

• Blonde should be an ash colour
• Browns should be Mahogany colour (like a reddish brown)
• Black Brown should be a deeper mahogany or smoke (black is too dark - see above!)
• Red should be taupe or camel
• Grey/White shold be a grey or taupe.

I found now I regually had my eyebrows shaped and defined the rest of the my make up falls into place easier. Something so simple has really opened my eyes up and added more a simple, defined and chic everyday look.

Masterclass - The History of Mascara

 

 

Other than foundation the holy grail is mascara, one that makes lashes look darker, thicker, longer and defined. The early mascaras date back the Egyptian times where eye areas were darker to ward off dark spirits. It didn't back into fashion in Europe until the Victorian era. Victorian ladies of leisure would make their own mixture; would heat a mixture of ash or lampblack and elderberry juice on a plate and apply the heated mixture to their eyelashes.



The first commerical mascara was developed by Eugene Rimmel using a new product called Petroleum jelly, his name is still linked with mascara as in Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian it is translated as mascara. Mr Rimmel is also the founder of Rimmel London (then Known as the House of Rimmel) and was owned by the family until 1949.

Over the water a little later in 1913, another mascara empire was starting. T. L. Williams was creating something similar for his sister Maybel, which planted the seeds for the company Maybelline. Both formulations were messy and not easy to use.

It wasn't until Helena Rubinstein, a shrewd business woman, saw the popularity that this product was getting and started to develop (alongside her rival Elizabeth Arden). After the First World War, consumers were eager to try new products and this is where Rubinstein launched her range including mascara cake that is applied by wetting the material and applying with a brush.

Years later in 1957, Rubinstein created a formula that evolved mascara from a hard cake into a lotion-based cream. The packaging of the new mascara was in a tube sold with a brush. For use, the cream was squeezed onto the brush and applied to lashes.

The modern mascara we see today was soon evolved, the device picked up the same amount of mascara for each use. Then the grooved rod was altered to the brush similar to the ones used today. The change in applicator led mascara to be even easier to use, and so starts the hunt for the perfect mascara.

Next week - Using mascara

Masterclass - Eyeliner

Eyeliner comes in 4 different forms - Pencil, liquid, pens or cake liners. Pencil is the most common and versatile of the 4, as not only gives you more control but can change the finish to sharp or blended depending on what you need. Liquid is more defined and sharper, I also find a majority of pens come in liquid form (Liquids have a pot to dip into, while pens have a nib attached that you use to apply). With cake you use a brush, wet the bristles and paint the liner on, this can also give a stronger finish.

With any liner, I find applying it at first really fiddly, and can recommend to practise! I find it easier to lift the eyebrow up with one hand and using the other hand to put dashes along the lash line, and then join these up. If I'm using a pencil I would use a bit on the hand first to warm the tip as I find this goes on smoother. If you can sit down at a desk to start with this will you steady yours arms when applying until you feel more confident.

Always start inwards going outwards as not to drag the skin, and check your work regularly as not to get uneven eyes. If you want to apply any liner to the inside of the eye (also known as the waterline), pencils is best as this will be softer on the delicate area.

Examples of different looks
 

Masterclass - Eye Make Up for Glass and Contact Lense wearers

Bet you didn't know I wore glasses? I should wear them for when I'm working on the computer (like now but I can't find them), and then I have another pair for when I'm reading print. These above are my computer ones and then I have a slightly thicker framed for reading - A little bit of geek chic.

The effects of glasses on the appearance of the face depends on the design of the frames and the colour/type of lenses.

Frames

Heavy frames can take bolder eye make-up and a strong lipstick to provide balance, while steel frames can look lost in heavy dark make-up. By keeping the eyes softer above it blends in without over powering, using a eye liner, eye brow pencil and mascara gives a more defined look without clashing. When designing this look I also took in consideration the colour of the frame (a deep bronze) and used the same tones.

Lenses

Short-sighted people are ones who can focus on close up items but not far distance, while long-sighted can focus on long distance but struggle with things that are close up (aka me). The lenses are designed to compensate for this however can also effect the look of eyes behind them. Short-sighted people have the appearance of eyes that look smaller, while its the opposite for long-distance. This is where last weeks Masterclass on How to wear eye shadow can help correct this.

Contact Lenses

I must admit the idea of lenses isn't really my thing, would you believe I really don't like things on my eyes. With contact lenses there are some considerations to have because it is a thin membrane that sits on the eye. Cream eye shadow are better to use but powders can be used with a damp brush to reduce any loose pigment getting into the eye. Avoiding heavy creams around the area as if these get onto the lenses it can smear or even melt it. For mascara use a block or low alcohol which also contains little filaments so these do not get into the eye.

Next week -

Masterclass - Eye Shadow Colours and Effects

Using different eye shadows colours can achieve different effects, depending how their use and where they are used. Eye shadows not only come in a pressed powder form but also loose powder and cream (as well as different variants in between). The best way to get used to these different textures is to explore and play with them. I prefer powder as this has more of use dry or wet, and I have more control over how I use it.

What we going to do for this masterclass is to break down the colours and what effect they have on the final look:

Dark, muted colours

Colours: Charcoal,browns, olive, plums

These are more for defying eye contour and are more flattering for a sophisticated look. Can look better on dark haired and eyed models, while for fair skins can be used with a finer brush as a more subtle liner effect.

Pastel Colours

Colours: Pale blue, light aqua, pale green, peach

These colours produce a softer effects, if they have a slight shimmer I use these more as a base for matching colours to go on top. Good for people with blond or grey hair and if matched with eyes can bring out their colour.

Pale Colours

Colours: White, pearl, cream.

In contrast to darker shadows produces a highlighting effect that can be on the brow bone and inside of the eyes to make them look wider. I also use these if what I have applied is too dark by buffing these colours over.

Muted Colours

Colours: Grey, beige, sage, mauve.

Produce a more delicate effect than the darker colours so are more suited to producing a everyday look, and then adding the darker ones to covert to more of an evening look.

Bright Colours

Colours: Blue, green, yellow, violet, red

As the 'fun' side of colouring, are more suited for fashion or glamour make up. However they can look harsh on maturer skins when used all over, so adapting it to use wet as a liner can be more flattering way of wearing colour.

Next week - How and where to wear eye shadow

Masterclass - Ageing and it's Effects on Cosmetics





Ageing does happen to all of us, it how we react and develop to these changes that shape us.

Cosmetics are there to highlight the best of what we have, not create something that is not there. As our bodies and skin changes over the years, the way we were cosmetics is going to change with this as our needs and wants changes. Women can still looks stunning into the later years (Helen Mirren is a brilliant example), its all about understanding what is happening and adapting techniques.

The skin changes occur over time and are gradual as the skin cell reproduction slow down. Lifestyle also plays a part to this as illness and unhealthy lifestyle can speed up these processes. Exposure to sunlight also is an ageing accelerator and why it is recommnend to put on the SPF early on. Women compared to men produce less collagen so it always seem to age faster than men.

The main changes to skin structure is the thinning of the skin due to the loss of fatty tissue, this can also make it look crepe as the skin becomes looser. It will be dryer and flakier as the skin as the cells slow down reproduction and the removal of them slows down. The skin will also look sluggish as the muscles have a reduced tension, this also leads to the winkles. Uneven melanin will also lead to patchy pigmentation of the skin know as 'age spots'.

Ageing has an effect on the blood vessels caused by the decrease in elasticity in the walls of the capillaries, instead of returning to their original shape after dilating they stay permanent. In fairer skins this appears to be pink or red on the skin, on dark skins they appear less as the surface layers are thicker and can appear as darker patches.

Masterclass - Colour Theory

 

The above is known as a colour wheel and is the the simplest way to explain how colour interact with each other.

 

Primary colours of Blue, Yellow and Red are known as this because they cannot be 'made' by mixing another colour. By mixing two of these colours they create secondary colours like orange, green and purple. By mixing a primary with a secondary, this then produces tertiary colours like red-orange or blue-green.

 

Colours that sit next to each other on the colour wheel are referred to as harmonious because they share the same base colour. A good example like this are the colours yellow-orange, orange or red-orange because they share the same base colour of orange. Strong tones of this colour look sophisticated when pastel coloured tones create more of subtle effect.

 

Complimentary colours are ones that one the opposite side of the colour wheel. These when put together make a bolder statement creating a more dramatic effect. Each primary colour has a complementary secondary colour and visa versa. When the colours are mixed together they also have a neutralising effect on each other, which is the key in colour correcting like green neutralises any red areas on the skin.

 

When we talk about the different tones to the skin being cool or warm this is referring to the colour sets that will compliment this tone. The colours yellow-green to blue-violet are know as more cool as they lean towards the blue tones. The warmer tones are from yellow-orange to red-violet lean more towards to the red.

 

 

Masterclass - Lighting and How It Effects Colour Cosmetics

Your shopping for foundation and it looks great in the shop, you skip home put it there and well it's just turns out wrong. One of the factors is the lighting and this not only effects what foundation looks like but any colours cosmetics that you are going to use.

To understand this more we're going to look at the different categories of light: Natural and artificial to see what effects they have on cosmetics.

Natural Light

Unfortunately natural light is the leas forgiving for showing any imperfections and badly done make up. Daylight is the purest form of white light, and shows colours and textures to their fullest in make up. Sunlight does only falls on the face from above, it reflects onto the face from any light coloured surface that it hits, including walls and floors. Colour also looks more stronger in daylight.

White light is made up of seven colours: Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, and Violet.

Artificial Light

These effects can vary depending on the light used.

Filament lamps using normal light bulbs can produce a yellowish light, this can dull effects of blue-toned colours and make red tones darker. If the light bulb is covered then it pushes the light downwards which then can produce sharper shadows.

Fluorescent lamps (mostly used in retail stores) give out a harsh bluish-white light which take any warmth of colour out of it. These tubes are usually covered by diffusers which can soften the light and disperse it better so it seems less harsh on the face.

There are some warmer fluorescent tubes in stores and in artificial light these are the closest to 'natural' light that you can get.

With any lighting you will also need to consider he intensity of the lighting that is being used. This is the distance that the light needs to travel to reach the surface that is being worked on. Intense lighting of theatre or camera shoots can provide a very washed out effect with little colour coming through. this is why stronger colours are used these type of uses so they can still show up when being used.

Light also plays a significant part in contouring a face (which we covered in last weeks Masterclass). Light falling onto the face from above reflects off of the boner parts of the face like nose, cheekbones and chin. Typically shadows fall under brow bone, under the eyes, nose to mouth line (called naso-labial folds), under the cheekbones, and under the chin.

This can be balanced by using other directional lights. These pictures below were from a lecture I went to the other week at Olympia Beauty. They demonstrate a mini photo shot using directional lighting to illuminate the face and counteract any shadows.

Masterclass - Face Contouring

Contouring the face means to emphasise what you want people to see and hiding what you want to hide.The products used are there to achieve a subtel effect and blend in with the amke up worn.

Face contouring to achieve the 'perfect' oval shape face (or whatever face shape is desirable at the time). This is using prodcuts likes blusher, highlighters and bronzers/shaders applied in the correct areas.

Face shape: Oval

Aim: To accentuate the 'prefect' bone stucture.

Techinque: Blusher towards the temples along the cheekbones, with shader beneth the cheekbone and highligher on top.

Face Shape: Round

Aim: Crate the illusion of legnth downt he centre and width from the sides and temples of the face.

Technique: Highlighter down the narrow strip of the face (well blended). Blusher high up on the cheekbones towards the temples. Shader blended on lower half of the face over the angels of the lower jaw and over the temples.

Face Shape: Square

Aim: Soften jaw line and reduce the width of the forehead and lower part of the face.

Technique: Shader over the angles of the lower jaw and down the sides of the forehead. Blusher at the fullness of the cheeks and blending upwards.

Face Shape: Heart

Aim: Reduce width of forehead and widen the lower half.

Technique: Apply shader on the sides of the forehead and temples. Hihglight angels of the lower jawline, with blusher on the fullness of the cheeks.

Face Shape: Diamond-Shape

Aim: Crat the illusion of fullness to the centre of the face and reduce the length. Also widen the forehead and add extra width.

Technique: Apply shader on the tip of the chin and narrowest part of the forehead. Highlighter to go on the sides of the temple and lower jaw. Apply blusher to fullness of cheeks.

Face Shape: Oblong

Aim: Reduce the illusionof length, and add fullness and extra width.

Technique: Apply shader aalong the hairline and the point of the chin. Highlight salong the lower jaw and temples. Blend blusher along the fullness of the cheeks towards the ears.

Face Shape: Pear-Shape

Aim: Creat width in the forehead. To reduce the lower width of the face to create balance.

Technique: Apply highlighter to the sides of the forehead, while shader to the sides of the chin and angles of the lower jaw. Apply blusher to the fullness of the cheeks towards the temples.

Kim Kardashian - Before blending and after. Perfect example!

Masterclass - Eyes

aka - all about the peepers B )

I wanted to write this one seperate after writing one of the others, I could easily see the other blog entry doubling in size!

Your eyes are supposibily the windows to the soul, I know when I met my husband it was his eyes that I loved. We met when I was 15 and him 13 (cradle snatcher I Know), he has some really soft blue eyes that always twinkled when he was up to trouble (or at least thinking it), he still has that 13 yr old twinkle now. The great things about eyes they don't really age and they are individual to each person. Unfortantly, its the area around the eyes that give it all away!

Your eyes are also an opeining (things can get in and can get out). These can be a course of irritation and the list of illness can be very long. With anything that causes longterm irritation or anything that you feel doesn't feel "right" get it checked out by your GP (espically if people are running away in horror!). There one thing that floats around that is true: the skin around your eye is thinner, can be one of the dryest area, and most sensitive; so anything that you do chose to go on this area should be designed for that area.

Cleansers for here are designed with two things in mind - To take eye make up off as well as the dirt and grime that collects over the day on your lashes and eyelids. I find if you do wear waterproof mascara to find something is a little more oilier as this will dissolve any mascara, some you can find designed for senstive eyes as well. I did have to try out (and give away) a few brands before I found the perfect one so prepared to invest time and money into finding the right one (I ended up with a Boots own one that cost £1.42 and it does the job perfectly, while allergic to some that are £20 odd).

Same as washing the face the next bit to rehydrate, now this is where the big battle starts. People are very divided on whether its worth it. The main difference between an eye cream formula and a face cream formula is that an eye cream has less additives and more emoliments (yummy moisture stuff) than face cream. I would never take both of them right up to eye but up to the boney bit of the eye socket. I do notice the difference when I have used one, a lot more freasher and brighter. You can even use your serum around here as well as they're texture are very light and its concertrated in ingrediants.

Next week: The rest of the body (because that needs TLC too!)

Masterclass - Skin Types

aka. Know your enemy (and make it a friend)

We are all not the same, we all have different needs and requirements for ourselves. Like ourselves, skin typing is not exclusive, you will find as we go through this that you could fall into more than one category. Over time you'll also find that you'll skin will also travel from one section to another, factors that can change this are:

* Aging (sorry)
* Pregnancy
* Stress
* Smoking (honesty give it up, you'll skin will love you in weeks!)
* Pollution (most notably the London smog)
* Medication
* Weather (going from heat to cold then heat then cold)

So why do we have skin categories? It just makes life easier for the customer and the companies, I have never ever have seen a product that can do everything that everyone requires. This gives the company focus to produce products for a certain need, as different skin types have different needs.
Right, down to basics, there are four skin types, each with their own characteristics that sets them apart from one another:

Normal Skin
Uber rare to find, one with no problems that looks fresh clear and perfect. I think of this of skin before hormones (and life) kicks in. Soft, springy, even toned and colour. This what you are aiming for when you add a foundation to skin. Product wise you can use anything that doesn't strip the skin of moisture
support of your skin.

Dry Skin
This is more skin that is moisture deficient, leaving the skin dry to touch. There would be lack of elasticity to skin, as well as dullness and flakiness. The pores (where sebum is produced) is small and tight, cell regeneration also is slowly (hence the dullness its the higher rate of dead skin cells). Unfortunately on of the most common characteristics is that your skin will look older, that is why it is good to use a creamy exfoliate to support the cell regeneration process. Due to lack of moisture dry skin is more prone to be sensitive because it doesn't have that barrier. Please invest in a beautiful creamy moisturiser, you'll skin will thank you for it.

Oily Skin
Is the complete opposite to dry, this is your skin working overtime and producing more sebum that you need. This produces that sheen on the skin, but don't mistake this for glow (that's a delicate softness, oily just looks you've dipped your face in chip oil). This skin will normally have enlarged pores, will look dull because the dead cells sit around in the oil and the blood circulation is sluggish. Unfortunately this skin will suffer with more blemishes and spots, on the good side it'll have great tone and can protect the skin from early aging. This skin will need to look more for products that are designed for your skin (oil free is a key thing), a very light lotion will be great as well as matifying serum/primer to look less shiny.

Combination Skin
Basically this has a mixture of the above, the most common combination is dry cheeks and a slightly oilier nose and forehead (this would be me). This all about maintenance and there are products out there what can balance this skin out. You might find that your skin changes like the wind blowing and you will need to change your routine season to season. I find that I get oilier in summer (where I convert to lotion) and drier in the winter (where  go to cream).

These skin types provide a basis to start on, after this you then look at the needs of the skin (anti-aging, even skin tone etc.). When I asked about people abut the skin there are two questions I normally ask is the following: What concerns you about your skin (an old habit from Lauder but it a one that always gets the answers I want) and want do you want the end result to be (keeping in mind that nearly all adverts are airbrushed within an inch of their lives)? Out of everything please just be honest with any consultants, the more honest you are with us, the more informed we are and the more we can help you look your best.

Next week - Eyes

Masterclass - Moisturisers

aka. Your skin needs a drink.

Firstly a few more skin basics - Your skin contains 20% of your body's water reserves. Most of this is in the lower layer (dermis) of the skin, however, like the cell regeneration it work its way up to the top layer (epidermis) where it'll evaporate away. Skin protects itself by production of sebum, protecting cells by creating a complex mix of subtances and finally filling more gaps with lipids (like fats) which forms a watertight barrier.

Moisturiser is there to offer a support to this system, it's not just something to slap on, it is something to think about.

Any basis of a moisturiser cream is a mixture of oil and water, whether it is your one pound special or Creme de la Mer. Lotions have an ingrediant called glycrine (a sugar syrup that is simular to lipids) or sobitol (a reduction of glycrine), this then means that the concetration of oil used can be lowered, which produces the lighter fluid moistrusier. This is why if you read any ingrediant lists on products "aqua" (posh word for "water") appears first as it is the ingrediant that there is the most of.

Into this is where we find the differences in each brand/formulation - vitamins, minerals, SPF, the list you can image is endless (I cannot remember the brand but there is one out there which boosts it has over 300 ingrediants - I would hate to learn that list!). SPF (Sun Protection Factor) would make you bog standard moisturiser into an anti-aging moitursier. This will protect the skin from the sun rays (bonus points if you can get one with UV filters, but not sun screen as these are very rich with oil and can feel heavy), and delay damage to the skin which can lead to wrinkles.

Ok so why is La Pairie creams (avg. 300-400 pounds a go), when theres something else for a tenner? It all comes down to those extra ingrediants that are being added (like gold flakes, cavier - These are very rare thus very expensive to put in. Not to forget that that these companies have put in hours of research to create something no one else has etc.)

What you need to think about two things - What do I want it to do for me? (Protection, cure dryness, makes skin less red etc.) and I think the more important, how much am I willing to spend up to? When I'm looking for a new product to invest in (personal or business) I read blogs, customer review sites, magazines - This is so I know what is out there, what my money can get (and do I need to save up if I fall in love with something), but also what the customer REALLY thinks (because a great product can be great for them/you and worth a look, but a continued bad product is worth a wide birth!).

A good moisturiser is a real investment, when a jar runs out and if it still doing wonderful things for you be faithful to your love. Only you know when it's time to move onto another moistrusier lover.
Next time - The minefield of skin types.